| The age old dilemma with internal combustion engines…when to change the crankcase oil. |
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| After many years of working with compression ignition engines and spark ignition engines, I've developed the following technique that quickly alerts me to the condition of the oil. |
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| Pull the dipstick from a cold engine and place your thumb and first finger on the stick directly above the full oil level mark on either side. Draw the stick through your finger and thumb in the finger-print area while gradually increasing pressure with finger and thumb once the stick and fingers are free from one another. Rub oil between finger and thumb, and when it feels abrasive like bathtub cleaner (Soft Scrub), it's too late. |
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| Repeat this procedure in between oil changes to determine the oil change intervals for your engines. |
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| The best oil I have found for use in internal combustion engines is ROTELLA manufactured by Shell Oil Company. The carbon cleaning component of this oil will keep your piston rings and valves from seizing due to carbon buildup. I have used all the major oil brands since 1975 and I have witnessed the residual effects different oils have on engines and for me this is the best oil available.I always have sae 30,15-40,40 in stock. |
| When working with aluminum engines and aluminum engine parts be careful not to introduce copper based compounds during any repair work. These materials are not in galvanic harmony and expect to see pitting and corrosion when these two come together. |
| When replacing anodes on your out-drive make sure you have the correct anode for the water you are boating in.The wrong anode can do more damage than good. |
